We traveled to France’s second city (shh … don’t tell Marseilles) this Summer, and we almost don’t want to tell you what we thought of it. Because, well, then it would remain our little secret. But here goes anyway: Lyon is pretty fantastic. It’s not simply because it is the place where French cuisine emerged fully formed from the kitchens of the legend Paul Bocuse. It’s also not just because its location at the confluence of the Soan and Rhone rivers means it has a pedigree stretching back to ancient Rome (with the theater ruins to prove it). It’s both of those things and much more including … the steps. The city has two major hills from the tops of which tumble down winding ancient streets and apartments in close quarters. We stayed in Croix-Rousse, the northern hill, and more than earned our baguettes and fromage shuttling up and down the dozens of stairways dotted throughout. It’s a great way of staying active on holiday while at the same time sneaking beautiful vistas of the city off the beaten path. And Autumn is the perfect time to duck into a Bouchon, the town’s legendary eateries, for a meal that will last in your stomach almost as long as in your memory.